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Alexander Mitchell Kellas (21 June 1868 – 5 June 1921) was a British chemist, explorer, and mountaineer known for his studies of high-altitude physiology. He was born in Aberdeen, Scotland. Himalayan Club Vice President Meher Mehta characterized Kellas' papers A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending the Loftier Himalaya and A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending Mt Everest as "key catalysts in driving scientific thinking into climbing big peaks. His studies included the physiology of acclimatization in relationship to important variables like altitude, barometric pressures, alveolar PO2, arterial oxygen saturation, maximum oxygen consumption, and ascent rates at different altitudes. He had concluded that Mt Everest could be ascended by men of extreme physical and mental co

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  • Alexander Mitchell Kellas (de)
  • Alexander Kellas (en)
  • Alexander Kellas (it)
  • Келлас, Александр Митчел (ru)
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  • Alexander Mitchell Kellas (Aberdeen, 21 giugno 1868 – , 5 giugno 1921) è stato un alpinista e fisiologo scozzese. Conosciuto per i suoi studi di fisiologia in alta quota, esplorò e scalò diverse cime in Himalaya; partecipò alla prima spedizione britannica all'Everest, durante la quale trovò la morte. (it)
  • Александр Митчел Келлас (англ. Alexander Mitchell Kellas) (21 июня 1868 — 5 июня 1921) — шотландский химик, исследователь и альпинист, известный своими работами в области высокогорной физиологии. (ru)
  • Alexander Mitchell Kellas (21 June 1868 – 5 June 1921) was a British chemist, explorer, and mountaineer known for his studies of high-altitude physiology. He was born in Aberdeen, Scotland. Himalayan Club Vice President Meher Mehta characterized Kellas' papers A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending the Loftier Himalaya and A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending Mt Everest as "key catalysts in driving scientific thinking into climbing big peaks. His studies included the physiology of acclimatization in relationship to important variables like altitude, barometric pressures, alveolar PO2, arterial oxygen saturation, maximum oxygen consumption, and ascent rates at different altitudes. He had concluded that Mt Everest could be ascended by men of extreme physical and mental co (en)
  • Alexander Mitchell Kellas (* 21. Juni 1868 in Aberdeen; † 5. Juni 1921 bei Kampa Dzong, Tibet) war ein schottischer Chemiker, Entdeckungsreisender und Bergsteiger, der vor allem für seine Beiträge zur Höhenmedizin bekannt ist, aber auch eine Rolle in der Besteigungsgeschichte des Mount Everest spielte. Kellas gelangen zwischen 1907 und 1921 im Grenzgebiet zwischen Sikkim und Tibet mehrere Erstbesteigungen. Die wichtigste Besteigung ist die des 7128 Meter hohen Pauhunri, den er im Juni 1911 gemeinsam mit zwei namentlich nicht bekannten Sherpas bezwang. Bis zur Besteigung des Pik Lenin im September 1928 im Rahmen der deutsch-sowjetischen Alai-Pamir-Expedition war dies der höchste bestiegene Gipfel weltweit. Kellas wurde aufgrund seiner hervorragenden Gebietskenntnisse Mitglied der ersten bri (de)
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  • Alexander Mitchell Kellas (* 21. Juni 1868 in Aberdeen; † 5. Juni 1921 bei Kampa Dzong, Tibet) war ein schottischer Chemiker, Entdeckungsreisender und Bergsteiger, der vor allem für seine Beiträge zur Höhenmedizin bekannt ist, aber auch eine Rolle in der Besteigungsgeschichte des Mount Everest spielte. Kellas gelangen zwischen 1907 und 1921 im Grenzgebiet zwischen Sikkim und Tibet mehrere Erstbesteigungen. Die wichtigste Besteigung ist die des 7128 Meter hohen Pauhunri, den er im Juni 1911 gemeinsam mit zwei namentlich nicht bekannten Sherpas bezwang. Bis zur Besteigung des Pik Lenin im September 1928 im Rahmen der deutsch-sowjetischen Alai-Pamir-Expedition war dies der höchste bestiegene Gipfel weltweit. Kellas wurde aufgrund seiner hervorragenden Gebietskenntnisse Mitglied der ersten britischen Expedition zum Mount Everest, die die Bedingungen für einen Aufstieg erkunden sollte. Er starb an einem Herzversagen, noch bevor die Expedition in das engere Gebiet um den Mount Everest vorgedrungen war. Kellas war immer davon überzeugt, dass es Bergsteigern mit herausragender physischer und mentaler Kondition gelingen könne, den Mount Everest ohne zusätzlichen Sauerstoff zu besteigen. Seine Überzeugung wurde 1978 durch Reinhold Messner und Peter Habeler bestätigt. (de)
  • Alexander Mitchell Kellas (21 June 1868 – 5 June 1921) was a British chemist, explorer, and mountaineer known for his studies of high-altitude physiology. He was born in Aberdeen, Scotland. Himalayan Club Vice President Meher Mehta characterized Kellas' papers A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending the Loftier Himalaya and A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending Mt Everest as "key catalysts in driving scientific thinking into climbing big peaks. His studies included the physiology of acclimatization in relationship to important variables like altitude, barometric pressures, alveolar PO2, arterial oxygen saturation, maximum oxygen consumption, and ascent rates at different altitudes. He had concluded that Mt Everest could be ascended by men of extreme physical and mental constitution without supplementary oxygen if the physical difficulties of the mountain were not too great." In 1978, Kellas' suggestion was verified by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler when they made the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. However, Kellas was also one of the earliest scientists to suggest use of supplemental oxygen on high mountains such as Mount Everest; the first ascent of Everest and most subsequent ascents (as well as some ascents of lower peaks) have done so. Kellas was also a noted mountaineer in his own right. He had made at least ten first ascents of peaks over 6,100 m (20,000 ft) including Pauhunri, 7,128 m (23,386 ft), in Sikkim, which was the highest peak climbed up to that point, although this was only discovered 80 years later. He reached the summit on 14 June 1911, and this world summit record was only broken in September 1928 with the ascent of Lenin Peak. Kellas died of a heart attack in 1921 near the village of Kampa Dzong, Tibet, on his way from Sikkim to the first expedition to Everest. He had had only a brief rest of 9 days after an arduous expedition to Kabru and was only a day's hike away from seeing Mount Everest for the first time. Former All Black John Kirwan is a distant relative of Kellas. (en)
  • Alexander Mitchell Kellas (Aberdeen, 21 giugno 1868 – , 5 giugno 1921) è stato un alpinista e fisiologo scozzese. Conosciuto per i suoi studi di fisiologia in alta quota, esplorò e scalò diverse cime in Himalaya; partecipò alla prima spedizione britannica all'Everest, durante la quale trovò la morte. (it)
  • Александр Митчел Келлас (англ. Alexander Mitchell Kellas) (21 июня 1868 — 5 июня 1921) — шотландский химик, исследователь и альпинист, известный своими работами в области высокогорной физиологии. (ru)
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