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Garment collars in Hanfu are diverse and come in several shapes, including jiaoling (cross-collars, overlapping collars at the front which closed on the right or left sides), duijin, yuanling, liling, fangling, tanling. Some forms of collars were indigenous to China while others had been adopted from the Hufu of other non-Han Chinese ethnic minorities and/or from the clothing worn by foreigners.

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  • Garment collars in Hanfu (en)
  • 交領右衽 (zh)
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  • Garment collars in Hanfu are diverse and come in several shapes, including jiaoling (cross-collars, overlapping collars at the front which closed on the right or left sides), duijin, yuanling, liling, fangling, tanling. Some forms of collars were indigenous to China while others had been adopted from the Hufu of other non-Han Chinese ethnic minorities and/or from the clothing worn by foreigners. (en)
  • 交領右衽是一些東亞及南亞服飾如漢服、越服、韓服、琉服、和服等的特徵之一,交领是指衣服前襟左右相交。向右掩(左前襟掩向右腋系带,将右襟掩覆于内。)的服飾,称为右衽。其历史可以追述至先秦时期,马王堆汉墓出土的交领右衽汉服重量仅有49克,显示当时中原纺织技术已达到极高水准。 而中国古代一些少数民族服装则是向左掩,称为。当时左衽被认为更适合游牧民族进行马上活动,而较早进入农耕文明的中原文明则选择了右衽,故而右衽也被古人当作华夏文明与四夷的重要文化区别。《论语·宪问》曾记载孔子所述:‘子贡曰:“管仲非仁者与?桓公杀公子纠,不能死,又相之。”子曰:“管仲相桓公,霸诸侯,一匡天下,民到于今受其赐。微管仲,吾其被发左衽矣。岂若匹夫匹妇之为谅也,自经于沟渎而莫之知也。”’意思是说要是没有管仲,我们就得沦为蛮夷那样,穿着左衽的衣服,披散着头发。 东汉末年儒学家经学大师郑玄注云:“言东夷西戎南蛮北狄被发左衽之人,无不皆恃赖三君之德,我小子亦长受其多福。” 《汉书》记:“《春秋》内诸夏而外夷狄,夷狄之人贪而好利,被发左衽,人而兽心。”《后汉书·西羌传·滇良》记载:“羌胡被发左袵,而与汉人杂处。” 这种思想影深远,如南宋著名爱国诗人陆游《剑南诗稿》诗云:“尔来十五年,残虏尚游魂。遗民沦左衽,何由雪烦冤。”,“哀哉六十年,左衽沦胡尘。抱负虽奇伟,没齿不得伸”,“遗民九愤污左衽,孱虏何足烦长缨。”等。另外,左衽也曾被用来指死者,在陪葬的壁画和绘画先人的画像中,使用左衽,以示阴阳有别。如《说文解字》记述 :“按,凡敛死者,左衽,不纽。 (zh)
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