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For woven textiles, grain refers to the orientation of the weft and warp threads. The three named grains are straight grain, cross grain, and the bias grain. In sewing, a pattern piece can be cut from fabric in any orientation, and the chosen grain or orientation will affect the way the fabric hangs and stretches and thus the fit of a garment. Generally speaking a piece is said to be cut on a particular grain when the longest part of the pattern or the main seams of the finished piece are aligned with that grain. Non-woven materials such as felt, interfacing or leather do not have a grain.

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  • Schrägschnitt (de)
  • Grain (textile) (en)
  • Sbieco (it)
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  • Beim Schräg- oder Diagonalschnitt wird ein Gewebe im 45°-Winkel zur Webrichtung geschnitten. Dabei sind zwei Schnittrichtungen möglich, die aufeinander senkrecht stehen. Stoff ist in Richtung der Diagonalen elastischer, daher fördert Schrägschnitt die Dehnbarkeit und den leichten Fall eines Kleidungsstücks. Die Pariser Modeschöpferin Madeleine Vionnet war insbesondere bekannt dafür, dass sie bei ihren Kreationen häufig den Schrägschnitt einsetzte. (de)
  • For woven textiles, grain refers to the orientation of the weft and warp threads. The three named grains are straight grain, cross grain, and the bias grain. In sewing, a pattern piece can be cut from fabric in any orientation, and the chosen grain or orientation will affect the way the fabric hangs and stretches and thus the fit of a garment. Generally speaking a piece is said to be cut on a particular grain when the longest part of the pattern or the main seams of the finished piece are aligned with that grain. Non-woven materials such as felt, interfacing or leather do not have a grain. (en)
  • Lo sbieco (tralice, in alcune regioni italiane) è la direzione, in un tessuto, a 45° rispetto alla direzione dei fili di trama e ordito.Ogni pezzo di stoffa ha due sbiechi, perpendicolari tra di loro. Nella tela sono gli unici due sensi in cui si può deformare, tirandolo, il tessuto: questa deformazione è il risultato dello scivolamento dei fili di ordito e trama, che perdono la posizione perpendicolare passando a una inclinata. Stoffe come il feltro, il panno lenci o l'alcantara non hanno sbieco, non essendo propriamente tessuti e quindi non composti da trama e ordito. (it)
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  • http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:FilePath/Bias_(textile).png
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  • Beim Schräg- oder Diagonalschnitt wird ein Gewebe im 45°-Winkel zur Webrichtung geschnitten. Dabei sind zwei Schnittrichtungen möglich, die aufeinander senkrecht stehen. Stoff ist in Richtung der Diagonalen elastischer, daher fördert Schrägschnitt die Dehnbarkeit und den leichten Fall eines Kleidungsstücks. Die Pariser Modeschöpferin Madeleine Vionnet war insbesondere bekannt dafür, dass sie bei ihren Kreationen häufig den Schrägschnitt einsetzte. (de)
  • For woven textiles, grain refers to the orientation of the weft and warp threads. The three named grains are straight grain, cross grain, and the bias grain. In sewing, a pattern piece can be cut from fabric in any orientation, and the chosen grain or orientation will affect the way the fabric hangs and stretches and thus the fit of a garment. Generally speaking a piece is said to be cut on a particular grain when the longest part of the pattern or the main seams of the finished piece are aligned with that grain. Non-woven materials such as felt, interfacing or leather do not have a grain. (en)
  • Lo sbieco (tralice, in alcune regioni italiane) è la direzione, in un tessuto, a 45° rispetto alla direzione dei fili di trama e ordito.Ogni pezzo di stoffa ha due sbiechi, perpendicolari tra di loro. Nella tela sono gli unici due sensi in cui si può deformare, tirandolo, il tessuto: questa deformazione è il risultato dello scivolamento dei fili di ordito e trama, che perdono la posizione perpendicolare passando a una inclinata. Stoffe come il feltro, il panno lenci o l'alcantara non hanno sbieco, non essendo propriamente tessuti e quindi non composti da trama e ordito. Gli abiti, per evitare deformazioni o cedimenti, sono generalmente tagliati in dritto filo, cioè nel senso dell'ordito, o in quello della trama, ma per ottenere effetti particolari di drappeggio ed elasticità possono essere tagliati in sbieco. (it)
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